Bombay Chowk serves regional Indian cuisine in Uptown

you welcome in Scene Report, a column during which Eater captures the ambiance of an iconic New York restaurant at a particular second in time.

Traditionally, Indian eating places on the Higher East and Higher West Sides have served menus that target a mixture of Punjabi vegetarian delicacies and North Indian Mughal meat. As different regional Indian meals develop in reputation all through the town, these uptown eating places have gotten extra adventurous. Bombay Chowk (1378 First Avenue, close to East 73rd Avenue) is a superb instance.

The place was based 5 years in the past by Asis Ghose, who was born within the northern a part of Punjab in what’s now Pakistan, however spent his childhood within the southern Philippines. The restaurant is maybe overly adorned, with a large colourful mural of an Arjun from MahabharataColumns surrounded by plastic autumn leaves, Hindu statues right here and there (though the meat served is halal), and delightful chairs comprised of a lathe with crimson embroidered cushions.

Phoebe: Open since 2018, Bombay Chowk attracts an eclectic crowd that appears very pleased to be there. At lunch, the place is not notably full and is sort of cozy. The tables on the sidewalk are excellent for individuals watching. Within the night, the eating room fills up by 8 p.m. (We went at 6:30pm with a gaggle of six). Some dine on curry and tandoori, whereas others are right here for regional delicacies. The proprietor works the room, counseling shoppers, or stands behind a counter surveying the scene.

the meals: The fare invoice is widespread. Search for the lately added Goan part on the menu, a nod to the seaport and seaside resort on India’s west coast, with dishes which might be usually spicy and infused with coconut milk. The Xacuti hen, with a sauce product of white poppy seeds, shredded coconut, star anise, and dried crimson pepper, has a delicate warmth, whereas the egg nuggets haven’t any warmth in any respect, because the hard-boiled eggs are tossed in mashed potatoes and deep-fried.

A ring of biryani rice, two layers of curry, and a piece of fish topped with lemon slices.

Assortment of dishes from Bombay Chowk.

The northern-style biryani is especially scrumptious, particularly the shrimp model ($23) served festively in a hoop with pomegranate-dotted yogurt; So is the Railroad Canteen Goat ($20), a tough minimize of meat in a tomato-covered curry, which I could not discover anyplace else I do know within the metropolis. Additionally do not miss the scallop dish from the southern Indian metropolis of Mangalore.

Red stew with pieces of meat and raw ginger on top.

Curry railway goats at Bombay Chowk.

what do you drink: Beer is greatest to drink with an eclectic mixture of Indian dishes — particularly Indian beers that are usually low in bitter hops, like Kingfisher, Taj Mahal, Previous Monk, and Indian American 1947 — and seltzer works effectively, too. The rosewater-flavored rhubarb falooda is a milkshake-like drink that makes a really good dessert, however it may be a little bit candy to drink throughout a meal, however so is the mango lassi.

Defects: Skip the vegetarian South Indian dishes like dosas, that are pale. Additionally skip the butter hen, it is too mild and candy. And should you like a restaurant with quiet corners and secluded tables appropriate for deep dialog, Bombay Chowk will not be the place for you — throughout dinner service, at the least.

A restaurant with a red awning and people walking past.

Daytime could also be the perfect time to go to Bombay Chowk.

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