One of Portland’s best Birriyas lives on at Birriyas Tamazola
After I moved Till Portland in 2020, there have been just a few locations serving birria — a slow-cooked meaty Mexican stew — and most of them have been within the suburbs. There at the moment are greater than two dozen Pereria eating places within the metro space, by my depend, and lots of extra embrace Pereria on their menus. However this is the factor: Most of them do not serve goat birria (birria de chivo) in a bowl. As an alternative, they specialise in beef tacos, particularly the quesaberria tacos which can be well-liked in Tijuana and Los Angeles and have exploded in reputation over the previous 5 years. There’s quite a bit to like about these tacos of wealthy cooked beef, melted white cheese, and tortilla strips with red-orange consommé, folded and grilled till crispy, with a bowl of additional consommé for dipping. Tacos are additionally versatile: They could be a hangover treatment at breakfast, or a deal with on the finish of the day.
However birria tacos are the flashy, millennial cousin of the basic birria de chivo. If you have not eaten a giant bowl of biriya goat broth, you are lacking out on the timeless consolation meals that’s biriya. Birrieria Los 7 Hermanos on Stark Road in Gresham has lengthy been a serious participant within the recreation, because of its gentle, butter-like broth filled with goat, chickpeas and rice. Now, there’s one other cease, with out the hummus and with a bit of extra chili: Berrias Tamazola, a comfy, no-frills spot with loads of pure gentle off the primary thoroughfare of downtown Gresham, which opened in 2022.
At Berrias Tamazola, dreamy plates of birria goat come laden with brick-red broth, and the ribs arch dramatically from the soup. That is co-owner Anthony Herrera’s household recipe, relationship again many generations of Tamazula in Durango, Mexico. This dish was born in Jalisco, the place Spanish conquistadors ignored the powerful texture and darkish taste of goat meat, however locals turned it into an fragrant soup. (Brea It means “ineffective factor” in Spanish.) The goat at Birrias Tamazula is among the many most delicate we have tried, softened to a clean, flower-like flavour. Beef ribs and tender cooked chops disintegrate with the push of a spoon. The broth tastes like one thing grandma may make, that unadulterated taste of long-cooked bones, with a bit of smoke and a bit of spice from the roasted peppers. Raquel, co-owner and Anthony’s spouse, will load a basket of tortillas for you, sizzling from the machine. They’re stuffed with scrumptious corn taste, skinny however splendidly puffy, with a bit of air pocket within the center that speaks volumes of an excellent tortilla.
When Anthony asks if you’d like sizzling sauce, the reply is affirmatively sure. In addition to the pink and inexperienced sauces, you will additionally get chile oil, made based on the recipe of a Lao household good friend. Thai chili peppers are the spine of the sauce, with a touch of smoked chili pepper for a Mexican twist.
It is laborious to go unsuitable with the basic goat birria in consommé right here, because the dish is so well-liked that the Herrera household typically prepares £600 at a time for catering orders. However the birria dorado can be value a strive, the place the goat is roasted within the oven till the sides are crispy, with beans and consommé on the facet.
When you’re searching for one thing to accompany your birria, your choices from the quick checklist are restricted. The Herrera household declined to develop the menu past their specialties, akin to seafood, a nod to Anthony’s household historical past, which included a decades-long cease in Baja California earlier than touchdown in america. If we’re nitpicking, the camarones zarandianos — entire, shell-on shrimp in a thick, spicy, barely smoky pink sauce — look spectacular, however the sauce is a bit heavy for such a fragile protein. Nevertheless, the seafood tacos are a stable guess: Baja-style fried fish tacos topped with slaw and pickled onions are a few of the greatest on the town, and the shrimp and cheese taco can be a worthwhile facet order, a crispy, folded tortilla. Oozing with garlicky, gooey cheese and plump shrimp. Home-made frescoes – tangy, tart and barely candy Jamaicans – akin to micheladas and margaritas are additionally out there.
By the way in which, that is the kind of priya that encourages survival. After you’ve got simmered your goat for twenty minutes or so, Anthony will come over with a jug of steaming goat broth so that you can add to your bowl. Transfer over, infinite mimosas. I am unable to consider many higher methods to begin a weekend morning.
Berrias Tamazola, 184 NE 2nd St, Gresham, @periyastamazola
